"Ask the Rabbi" by R. Mermelstein
QUESTION: Dear Rabbi Mermelstein:
What in your opinion is the best proceedure to follow in cleaning a gun?
Thanks for your help.
Gary B.
23 Mar 2000
ANSWER: Dear Gary,
In a nutshell:
1. Always clean from the breech whenever possible.
2. Always use a one piece cleaning rod. Send aluminum, sectioned rods
to the landfill. Stainless steel rods are okay, as long as you are
meticulous in keeping it free of scratches with 600 grit wet sand
paper. Far better are the synthetic coated rods made by J. Dewey Mfg. http://www.deweyrods.com/.
3. If cleaning from the muzzle is unavoidable, as in the case of many
semi-auto, pump, and lever action rifles, use the utmost care to ensure
that the rod does not rub on the crown. Those last couple millimeters
of rifling are the most important section of the bore.
4. If the rifle is a bolt action, use a bore guide. They are available from several sources. Sinclair International, http://www.sinclairintl.com/ and Midway USA, http://www.midwayusa.com/. Bore guides are made for specific models of bolt action rifles, action lengths, and chamberings.
5. NEVER use a stainless steel bore brush. Nothing destroys a bore like these brushes do.
6. Many good bore solvents are available from numerous sources. I use
Shooters Choice, and a 50/50 mix of Shooters Choice and Kroil. See http://www.shooters-choice.com/cleansg.html and http://www.kanolabs.com/.
7. If using an ammonia base solvent to remove copper bullet jacket
fouling, NEVER use it in a hot barrel, or leave it in the bore longer
than 10 minutes. The bore will often rust. Stainless steel barrels are
even more susceptible to rusting from ammonia base solvents than chrome
moly (blued steel) barrels. Follow the use of such solvents with a
water soaked patch to render the ammonia inert.
8. If cleaning a revolver, use a shop rag or cloth towel to protect the
breech face from the impact of the tip of the bore brush. Failing to do
this is a wonderful way to peen the hole in the frame through which the
firing pin protrudes and ruin the gun.
9. Soak several cotton flannel patches with solvent to push the carbon
powder fouling from the muzzle. Use a copper jag, never a loop patch
holder. Why drag the same crud back through the bore? Let the dirty
patch fall from the muzzle or breech end. If a patch falls to the
ground, don't use it. One grain of silica (sand) will permanently
scratch the bore's surface. Follow with one stoke of a phosphor bronze
bore brush with a copper core for each round fired, taking care that
the brush doesn't unscrew from the rod. On each pass, check that it's
tight. If it loosens, it can droop down and scratch the bore's surface.
Frequently check the condition of the bore brush. The best ones only
cost about a dollar each. If the bristles appear bent or it feels loose
in the bore, throw it away. After each use of the bore brush, spray it
clean with aerosol automotive brake cleaner or swish it around in a can
of acetone. Both evaporate quickly.
My practice is to never exceed 15 rounds of centerfire rifle cartridges
between cleanings. High Power competition shooters don't have that
luxury, and often fire a course of over 50 rounds between cleanings.
Bottom line: Clean as often as your particular shooting discipline
allows.
10. Last, and most important, triple check that the firearm is unloaded before cleaning.
Sincerely,
R. Mermelstein
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